During the last 50 years I have been involved with the esthetic sciences. I have seen very few real “breakthroughs” and have been involved in a couple. Everything else, despite claims of new ingredients, has already been there all along.
Before we get carried away with new ingredients, let’s look at human biology and the requirements that keep this organic computer, our skin, healthy and homeostasis.
When homeostasis is achieved via professional skincare treatments, the skin is equipped to fight off viral attacks, bacterial overload, several types of inflammatory baddies our environment abounds with and life’s stresses.
Outside of solar damage and environmental attacks, stress is the number one contributor to acne and aging syndromes. It interrupts or accelerates the hormonal cascades that run our body systems, including the defense mechanisms that we see in the mirror as things we do not like.
Back in the 1970s, I discovered the power of enzymes that would kick start the enzymes present in our skin to start sending the right messages across cell membranes to achieve maximum skin health performance. In tandem to this, I noted in Gray’s Anatomy 35th British Edition the huge role Vitamin C played in synthesis of collagen via the fibroblast cell. Hence, everything I formulated contained several types and quantities of both stable and unstable ascorbic acids.
In the 1980s, after achieving fairly good results on almost any type of skin condition, I boiled it down to everything we could possibly do as practitioners based upon, number one, REMOVING the excess corneum, allowing newer cells underneath to be REBUILT and kept alive a little bit longer–as our skin really wants to do. A fitting example of this is the skin around the areola of an older woman’s breast as compared to her face, neck, arms and hands exposed to the environment. The breast tissue is her real biological age.
In the 1990s glycosylation (glycation) forced me to up my research to build an army against excess sugars in the skin and free radicals. The planet was changing; the ozone layer was slowly thinning never to come back! I had formulated a little topical pain analgesic for my grandmother’s arthritis based upon cryotherapy, which became known as BIOFREEZE™. This surprising global success allowed me much more research funding, which enabled me to attack my personal teenage enemy–ACNE.
Drying out the skin or over oxygenating it with Benzoyl Peroxide did not seem somehow the right approach, so I started working with ingredients designed to kill off acne’s bacteria while lifting the barriers of old, dried up sebum congesting the hair follicle and addressing the hormonal ups and downs that instigate the disease in the first place. Removing stress instigated by the hypothalamus gland by showing the client real drug-free changes were taking place.
When they see hope, we have an internal healing take place along with topical treatment. In these years, I found a way to kill off the Demodex Mite, which is, in my opinion, the main instigator of Rosacea.
I cringe when I hear a speaker get up in front of therapists and state, “Rosacea cannot be cured but can be calmed down and controlled.”
This “bandage” approach cannot get rid of parasites that of course become involved with bacteria as the skin starts to break down with chronic inflammation. I have many people around the world who are now Rosacea free who would leap to their feet at these lectures like a tent revival and shout ‘I’ve been healed!”
In fact, nothing is really permanent until we are no longer in this world despite the plethora of quick fixes, machines and syringes. These innovations are tools, some quite remarkable such as good fillers and BOTOX™ and other muscle sleeping serums, but most of the time it’s a series of treatments and religious home prescriptives that wins the day and changes a life.
There is nothing wrong with being concerned about miracle ingredients. Everything out there has already been there for thousands of years and used in some manner by ancient Shaman’s, botanists or witch doctors. I personally have had many eye-openers in far off Tibet and visiting many backwoods places such as Inner Mongolia. My studies in Beta Glucan’s came to me via a military field doctor from Afghanistan who was treating war wounds with a little compound he obtained from the Norwegian fishing industry, funny little yeast polysaccharides grown on barleycorn that seemed to heal everything by stimulating the Langerhans cells in the skin.
There are many more mysteries I hope to delve into, but I know all will have to match our skin’s basic chemistry and be one of the hundred categories of treatments that lie in between the basic Remove, Rebuild, Protect and Maintain that we as practitioners’ must work with to achieve actual and maintainable results. All else is hype for hype and marketing.
Pay attention to your clients’ body, lifestyle, emotional state and medical history and your own common sense, it will tell you what to do.
Remember, there is no one ingredient or machine or device that will cure or change all the anomalies of skin disorders.
DMK founder – Danné Montague-King
A pioneer in his industry. Danné has seen the depths of depression associated with poorly functioning skin. In fact, his everlasting passion was born from his dissatisfaction with his own acne as a teen. Many times he has shared the story of how his parents would take him to lavish events where he would find a dark corner to hide away in, ashamed of this blemished skin. Not understanding the condition completely, and after failed attempts from top U.S. dermatologists to cure his acne, Danné took things into his own hands, and, desperate for a cure, he became his own guinea pig. A string of breakthroughs, trials, tribulations, and many travels would follow, until he found his first true breakthrough in the 60s involving Vitamin C therapy.
That’s all it took to spark what would be decades of developing successful treatments and products that would combine to form the iconic brand that is DMK – sold throughout 30 countries. For 50 years, Danné has lived by his motto: rebuilding skin, rebuilding lives.
DMK Concept – Remove, Rebuild, Protect, Maintain
DMK believes that the origin of most skin conditions is a result of disharmony within the skin. Using the principles of biochemistry, DMK has formulated a range of treatments and products designed to educate skin to perform like youthful healthy skin. By matching formulations with the body’s chemistry, the skin is encouraged to respond in a positive manner. DMK’s revolutionary concept of Remove, Rebuild, Protect, Maintain aims to match an individual’s biochemistry with the appropriate skin therapy.